Imagine shelling out over $70 for just one kilogram of rice—does that sound like a splurge or a smart investment in pure luxury? Dive into the fascinating tale of Kinmemai Premium, hailed as the world's priciest rice, and discover why its creator believes it could change how we view this humble grain forever.
Picture this: A sleek black box engraved with "World’s Best Rice" in gleaming gold catches the eye of Japanese chef Kenichi Fujimoto. He's based in Hong Kong and runs Sushi Fujimoto, and as he cradles the box, a hint of doubt crosses his face with a subtle smile. "These items are frequently overhyped for marketing purposes and might not deliver real quality," he explains, nodding toward the simmering pot of rice in his kitchen. With over two decades honing his craft under Michelin-starred sushi legends, Fujimoto has sampled countless rice types. But this one? It's in a league of its own.
But here's where it gets controversial... The producers of Kinmemai Premium boldly assert it's the finest rice globally, and in 2016, Guinness World Records officially dubbed it the most costly variety on the planet (you can check out the record at https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/428955-most-expensive-rice). CNN enlisted Fujimoto to put it to the test. First, the grains are meticulously rinsed and soaked, then placed in a cast-iron pot with water and heated gently.
For a seasoned Japanese chef like him, this is no casual experiment. "Rice represents the heart and soul of Japanese cuisine," Fujimoto shares warmly. "When it comes to sushi, the rice accounts for 80% of what makes it exceptional—the fish only adds the remaining 20%." The anticipation builds as the timer ticks down. "In just 15 minutes, we'll have our verdict," he adds with a knowing grin.
Rice holds a revered place in Japan, dating back roughly 3,000 years as a vital food source. Nowadays, over 300 varieties thrive across the nation, with researchers continually breeding new ones to meet evolving tastes and needs. Japanese rice-based creations—like sushi rolls, fluffy mochi desserts, and crisp sake beverages—have captivated palates worldwide in recent decades. Yet, exporting Japanese rice hasn't seen the same boom. That's where Keiji Saika steps in, the 91-year-old visionary president of Toyo Rice Corporation.
Back in 2016, Saika took it upon himself to elevate Japan's rice on the global stage. His Wakayama-based firm specializes in rice milling equipment and their standout product, Kinmemai, which translates to "Golden Sprout Rice." This variety is cherished for its superior nutrition and delightful flavor. "I sensed Japan needed to showcase the incredible qualities of our rice to the world more effectively," Saika recounts during a CNN Travel interview in the company's Tokyo headquarters.
The hurdle? Elevating Japanese rice's international reputation without draining the marketing funds. "That's when the Guinness World Records idea struck me. We had to attempt something groundbreaking," he reveals. Convinced he'd crafted the tastiest rice imaginable, Saika launched Kinmemai Premium that very year, pricing it at a staggering 9,496 yen for 840 grams—roughly $109 per kilogram in 2016. "Considering standard rice sells for just 300 to 400 yen per kilogram, I questioned if anyone would bite. To my surprise, interest surged," he notes.
What started as a singular endeavor has evolved into an annual tradition due to unwavering demand. This year, boxes of Kinmemai Premium retail for 10,800 yen, or about $73.40 each, and with only 1,000 boxes available, they vanished from shelves right after their August 22 release. As Toyo Rice gears up for the project's 10th anniversary in 2026, Saika insists profits from this pricey rice were never the objective. "Truthfully, factoring in expenses, we're likely operating at a deficit. Despite the lofty price tag, it's not yielding profits," he admits.
Instead, the goal was to spotlight Japanese rice and inspire farmers to grow premium strains. Saika dubs it the "World’s Best Rice" initiative—a testament to his relentless drive to enhance rice production in Japan. In the 1970s, he pioneered rinse-free rice to save water, and 20 years ago, his team engineered a milling machine that strips away just nine bran layers instead of the typical 16, locking in more nutrients and taste. And this is the part most people miss... Crafting Kinmemai Premium, the Guinness-record holder, requires an even more intricate process.
Annually, Saika handpicks four to six elite, prize-winning rice varieties from roughly 5,000 contenders in the International Contest on Rice Taste Evaluation, organized by the Syokumi Kanteisi—The Rice Taste Appraiser Association—the premier event of its kind in Japan. Beyond mere taste and feel, he evaluates enzyme levels in each cultivar. "That vibrancy, that inner energy, shines through in enzyme activity. Grains bursting with such vitality truly stand out," he explains. Only the most energetic ones make the cut. Next comes the aging phase. "Storing the rice for several months deepens its flavor further, enriching the taste and potentially boosting its health perks. This makes it genuinely extraordinary," Saika enthuses.
The meticulous steps, paired with scarce availability, drive up production costs. Kinmemai Premium often serves as an opulent gift, celebrating milestones or wooing business partners. Selected farmers for the year's "World’s Best Rice" venture are flown to Tokyo for a grand unveiling. "It fosters immense pride among them," Saika observes. "An unforeseen bonus is how producers strive yearly for this honor. When they succeed, local news outlets highlight it, noting they've been 'chosen for the World’s Best Rice ingredients.'"
This edition of Kinmemai Premium blends four varieties: two Koshihikari types from Gifu and Nagano prefectures, and two Yudai 21 strains from the same regions. Saika's lifelong passion for rice stems from his post-World War II childhood. After the war ended in 1945, Japan grappled with dire food shortages. Relying on the autumn harvest to avert crisis, a devastating Typhoon Makurazaki battered Kagoshima in the southwest and swept northward, ruining crops. "Countless lives were lost to famine, including judges and prominent figures from high society," Saika remembers solemnly.
His family endured by sowing whatever seeds they scavenged and foraging for eels, catfish, and birds. This ordeal forged in him a deep reverence for rice and a commitment to cultivating superior varieties. For Saika, Kinmemai Premium embodies that dedication. Yet, even he rations it sparingly. "I savor it only once yearly, when invited to sample the new batch—just a small portion," he shares.
Hiroshi Matsumoto, head chef at Toyo Rice's on-site sushi spot, became an immediate devotee after his first taste. "It was irresistibly delicious; I couldn't stop at one bowl and craved seconds," he recalls. Still, he doesn't pair it with sushi. "It shines best warm, as part of a traditional set meal," he advises.
Back in Fujimoto's kitchen, the Kinmemai Premium—courtesy of Toyo Rice—has finished cooking and steams invitingly in the black cast-iron pot. Normally, he'd conduct multiple trials to perfect soaking durations, water ratios, and heat settings with a novel rice. But with just 420 grams to experiment, improvisation was key. He rinsed it briefly for a second and soaked it for 30 minutes—half the usual recommendation—before potting it.
His first impressions? "Lovely, translucent hue. I appreciate it." His wife Ai chimes in: "Wow, it's gleaming." "Like a diamond," Fujimoto adds. "Each grain pops with clarity, a hallmark of superior quality. The shape is exquisite, and the scent is harmoniously mild—not overpowering." After tasting, he nods approvingly. "The flavors balance perfectly. The mouthfeel is satisfying, with ideal moisture. This would enchant anyone."
Would he stock it for his eatery? "Absolutely not. The cost is prohibitive—we'd triple our menu prices," he chuckles. Echoing Toyo Rice's chef, Fujimoto feels it's more fitting for kaiseki dining, featuring refined traditional fare. "It might not suit sushi; vinegar could make it soggy," he warns.
Another expert, Chef Nansen Lai, proprietor of Hong Kong spots like Flower Drum and Lai’s Kitchen (the latter famed for clay pot rice), also sampled Kinmemai Premium. He contrasted it with his signature blend: a fusion of aromatic Thai rice and Koshihikari from Japan's Niigata region. "It appears more adhesive and lacks the potent rice aroma of Thai varieties, which is typical for Japanese vs. Thai rice," he notes. Taking a bite, he praises, "Incredibly tasty, with layers of flavor far more intricate than our standard mix." He then shares with his team. "From a restaurant owner's view, we can't justify expenses like this. We opt for sturdier grains, such as Thai rice, to handle bold sauces. Yet, this one's so flavorful, it's enjoyable on its own."
Both Lai and Fujimoto commend Toyo Rice's endeavor as a motivational boost for growers. "Rice cultivators face hardships. Rising equipment and fuel costs mean rice prices have stayed flat for decades. Farmers haven't reaped benefits from higher retail rates. Without viable livelihoods, younger generations won't carry on the trade," Fujimoto points out.
At 91, Saika remains an energetic force, clocking in daily at work. "I'm in a suit today, but typically, I'm in coveralls, tackling hands-on tasks in the plant," he says. "Many seniors maintain health through karaoke, golf, or workouts, but few commit to business duties like this." His longevity secret? You guessed it—rice. His fervor fuels his continued efforts. "At my age, I focus on personal and company growth, but Japan's tomorrow weighs heaviest on my mind," he reflects. "Uncertain of my remaining time, I aim to innovate for societal good. Days are packed with purpose."
But is the sky-high price of Kinmemai Premium justified, or is it just clever marketing? Some argue it's an elitist indulgence that does little for everyday consumers, while others see it as a beacon for elevating global appreciation of rice quality. What do you think—should luxury foods like this drive innovation, or does it widen divides in access to nutrition? Share your thoughts in the comments below: Do you agree with Saika's mission, or is this just rice hype?
CNN’s Junko Okura and Mai Takiguchi contributed to this piece.
