The cost of desk lunches has skyrocketed, with salads now costing £15 and baguettes £7. This marks a stark contrast to the days of sub-£3 meal deals, which included a sandwich, crisps, and a drink. The author questions what has driven this price hike, highlighting the rise of premium salad bowls and gourmet lunch options. From Pret a Manger's large salads to Honest Greens' London debut and Farmer J's chic school-tray dinners, the market is saturated with high-end choices. Even Robuchon, a renowned chef, has joined the trend with a deli bar. The author notes that Whole Foods' build-your-own salad bar, at £2.40 per 100g, can quickly add up to £14 for a small bowl. The Salad Project, with its seven London sites, sells around 4,000 salads a day, some costing up to £20. This trend is not limited to niche health-conscious operations but has become an economy. The best-value salad bar in central London now resides in Fortnum & Mason's basement, offering a substantial roast meat, grains, and vegetables meal for under £10. The author reflects on the changing nature of 'treat days' and 'cheat days,' where 'cheat days' have evolved into a more subtle, protein-rich, and fibre-forward approach. The rise of £15 lunches raises concerns about the cost of daily meals, which can amount to £4,000 a year. The author questions the health implications of these expensive salads, using Pret's miso salmon salad bowl as an example, which contains 761 calories, 47.1g of fat, 43.4g of carbohydrates, 12.8g of fibre, and 36g of protein. The High Steaks bowl from atis, another example, contains 735 calories, 40g of protein, 33g of carbs, and nearly 50g of fat. Nutritionist Jo Travers emphasizes the importance of portion sizes and the distinction between different food sources, such as beans, lentils, nuts, and seeds, versus fried chicken. She argues that the issue is not the existence of these bowls but the distortion of portion sizes, which have been increasing over the decades. The author delves into the concept of the 'health halo,' where the perception of healthiness can be misleading. While these salads are made from whole foods with minimal ultra-processing, the author questions the nutritional value when foods stop resembling their natural state. The author concludes by questioning the trade-off between health, value, and indulgence, and whether the pursuit of more nutrients and calories justifies the higher cost. The rise of £15 lunches has created a new set of challenges, as the idea of a normal, affordable, and healthy lunch seems to be disappearing.
